Mr. Knospe, a unconventional figure in the world of horology armed with a background in financial arbitrage, he possesses a unique perspective. A self proclaimed freak, his story is a reminder to always keep our childlike curiosity and look beyond the mainstream.
As I'm embarking on my journey into the world of horology I'm intrigued to learn about your journey. What motivated you to start Plus Ultra?
It all began quite simply. I've been in the consulting business for some time, and when I received a bonus, it marked the start of my watch adventure. On a Friday afternoon in Munich, I planned to buy a Rolex. That was my idea of celebrating success. However, I stumbled upon a vintage watch dealer who didn't have the Rolex I sought. Just as I was leaving, he showed me something intriguing – an Omega with a tuning fork and I was like struck with lightning. This Omega had a 300hz movement, and I was captivated by its distinctive features: the hand sweeping 300 times per second, the audible vibration, and its excellent condition. Surprisingly, the dealer mentioned that these watches weren't popular among collectors. This was about a decade ago. That piqued my curiosity, leading me to explore watches that were underappreciated.
I'd ask dealers what would happen if I didn't buy a particular piece, and their response was often, "We'll melt it"
How does one develop the taste for underappreciated watches
I began collecting precious metal watches that, in my opinion, deserved more attention. I couldn't comprehend why they weren't sought after, and I felt a sense of responsibility to save them from being melted down. My interest soon extended to Beta21 heavy gold watches, even though they were often disliked by collectors due to their use of gold and quartz. I found these early quartz watches fascinating, as they were often more handmade than mechanical watches from the same era and held historical significance.
Salvador Dali “The Disintegration of the Persistence of Memory” is a good metaphor for the practice of melting watches for metal.
They would melt watches? Who?
I'd ask dealers what would happen if I didn't buy a particular piece, and their response was often, "We'll melt it." So, I'd step in and save these watches from being lost forever. For example, the Rolex King Midas, which is now gaining recognition, was once overlooked. I have a good idea which houses and dealers melted down certain watches, and they would likely regret that decision today. Historically significant timepieces were lost in this way, even by renowned horological houses, just five years ago.
Why do you think the King Midas is gaining traction now?
Looking back, I believe that, in terms of quality, design, and price, watches like the King Midas from Rolex were unmatched even decades ago. They were the most expensive watches of their time.
Have you ever purchased a King Midas for price/kg?
Yes, I have, but not all of them. Some dealers still buy watches based on their gold value minus a discount.
As the market value for ultra rare and unpopular watches are hard to pin what other approaches you use to make decision if a watch is worth buying?
My background in financial arbitrage influenced my approach. In essence, I apply market analysis principles to watches. If I find an undervalued gem in one brand or category, I consider it similar to finding valuable information in one stock that can apply to another in the same industry.
1971 Constellation f300Hz Tuning Fork Chronometer. One of the favorites of the goldsmiths.
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Can you bring one example of such situation?
I approach each watch with childlike curiosity and fairness. For instance, even a respected brand like Patek made mistakes, such as with their Beta21 watches. Patek's Beta21 watches were among the poorest quality-wise. The movement was secured by just three pins, allowing it to move within the watch by a millimeter. There was no solid movement holder, as seen with Piaget's solid gold movement holder that fit perfectly. In my view, Piaget's Beta21 was of the highest quality, yet Patek commanded the highest prices. As someone with a financial arbitrage background, this didn't make sense to me.
What about risk management as there is not much info on obscure pieces?
That`s why I appreciate vintage quartz watches because they don't require meticulous attention to every detail, like dial fonts or how big are the red accents. With vintage quartz, an 80% understanding suffices, reducing my risk when making purchases.
How does one venture from a collector to a dealer?
My journey continued from there. I accumulated a substantial collection, and people began approaching me to sell some watches. I realized I couldn't keep everything, so I started selling some pieces. I see myself as both a collector and a dealer, much like a museum that aims to preserve rather than profit. I'm not solely a watch dealer; there are plenty of them already. I aim to be a custodian of horological history, much like museums that acquire artworks when they're undervalued, with the selling price being secondary.
While I can't make guarantees, I predict that quartz watches will gain more attention. It will become a very big thing as they offer a blank canvas for many collections.
You've mentioned the idea of a museum several times. Would you ever consider opening an actual museum where people could visit and view your collection?
No, I don't plan to open a museum. However, I'm always open to meeting with enthusiasts who are curious about specific watches. I'd happily sit down for a coffee and bring along some watches for them to see. It's a casual experience with no obligation to buy, just a chance to appreciate and discuss interesting timepieces. I do this regularly.
The Hamilton Van Horn with the first electric caliber and the first ever Hamilton Electric model from 1957. Google “Hamilton caliber 500” and thank me later.
Out of all the watches you've encountered, which one stands out as the most unusual or quirky? Something that surprised you or that you thought would never exist?
The Hamilton Caliber 500 in 18-karat gold is a notable mention. It's available in both 14-karat and 18-karat gold. Another intriguing piece is the Bulova with the Beta21 movement, often referred to as the "Alien Head." It features a large gold case that wraps around the wrist, a unique design for its era. In fact, it's the heaviest Beta21 watch ever made, weighing 250 grams. Again the quality of these watches was often superior to Patek's Beta21 models. However, I remain curious, and there may be undiscovered gems out there. The watch industry is full of fascinating failures that sometimes overshadow the success stories.
If your style of watches becomes mainstream, would you shift your focus elsewhere?
Sometimes probably, yes. To come back to the general motivation: Like a child, my main driving force is to understand things and especially if what you see deviates from what you would expect or is already understood. A good example is the Rolex Midas or the brand Piaget. I was curious to research Piaget a couple of years ago, simply because what I saw - The best trend-setting watches in the 70s and 80s, simply don't match their current portfolio and position in the market. I think this was solved and I can explain this and so my focus has since shifted. While vintage Piaget come into focus of other dealers now, my curiosity has moved elsewhere. Nonetheless, my love for vintage Piaget remains intact.
Rolex King and Queen Midas - I wonder how many of the King Midas 800 pcs ever made were melted and gone forever.
You often seem to be ahead of the curve what do you believe are the upcoming trends?
While I can't make guarantees, I predict that quartz watches will gain more attention. It will become a very big thing as they offer a blank canvas for many collections, particularly among brands known for producing high-quality pieces in the '70s and '80s, such as Piaget and Omega. The trend is moving towards unique watches. People want timepieces that stand out, sparking interesting conversations. If two people wear the same watch, there's nothing to talk about. However, a watch made in 1982 with only ten examples, for instance, becomes a conversation starter.
Your message to the watch community and final thoughts?
I encourage everyone to approach watchmaking with the curiosity of a child and to avoid excluding anything. There are countless watch companies that tried their hand and failed, making their fail stories sometimes more intriguing than the successes. But ultimately, people should wear what they enjoy. I'm not here to dictate; everyone will find their own perspective on the world.
You can find Mr. Knospe and Plus Ultra below at